Monday, May 18, 2009

Saul and Eyal: a Story

Saul and Eyal (שאול ואייל) knew each other since their diaper days in the Kibbutz nursery. They were both born and raised on the Kibbutz, and it was there where they learned to milk the cows with the new electric milker machinery, there where they learned the secular, Zionist ideologies of the Movement, and most importantly, it was there where their love of nature and hiking formed and was nurtured. Besides the weekly Saturday טיולים (hikes) the two boys took with their local youth group, Saul and Eyal were also known to go off on their own, exploring the local landscape--often liberating themselves from early afternoon classes so they could journey far enough to arrive at a choice מצפה (lookout point) for sunset. It was on these outings that and subsequent moonlit walks back home that led the youngsters to learn every rock, hill, and mountain like the back of their hands. The aging grandfathers of the Kibbutz often scolded Saul and Eyal for neglecting their communal duties, yet held a warm place for them in their hearts, admiring the children's fiery desire to explore.

Boys became men. After serving in the army, Saul as an officer in the Paratroopers and Eyal in the נ"חל (Nachal--a unit that combines combat service with Kibbutz volunteering), they both relocated to a neighboring kibbutz and began their careers in the agricultural field. Although they were no longer able to take daily hikes as they held steady jobs and even new families to attend to, there were still able to maintain their longstanding tradition by trekking every Friday on nearby trails and paths.

It was on one such Friday in February, 2007 that Saul and Eyal decided to drive up to one of their favorite trails, a full day hike on the mountainous ridges of "the Big Crater" (or המחתש הגדול). Armed with Camelbaks and apples, they set out. Now, they had not spend all of their lives hiking just to arrive at a point in their late 20's where they felt they needed to hike with professional boots and gear. Nay, open toed sandals and walking sticks were enough for them. The day was beautiful: sunny but not too hot as there were occasional clouds to provide sporadic, timely shade. The two men ascended the crater with relative ease, enjoying the sights and tackling the narrow and steep paths while barely breaking a sweat.

At around 1pm, they were walking along the top of the crater overlooking the vast canyon below them when they first saw coming the other way three hikers. They crossed paths and engaged in friendly conversation, soon finding out that the hikers were three 18/19 year old Americans doing the southern 40% of the national Israel trail (a trail that goes the length of the State of Israel, walkable in entirety by foot). The Americans, named Ari, Jonah, and Chachi (like Joanie Loves Chachi) were on the the third day of their respective trek and, although visibly sweaty and tired, seemed to be enjoying themselves immensely.

They had enormous packs of their backs that seemed way too heavy on the Americans shoulders, the weight probably not spaced appropriately on their hips, but Saul and Eyal kept mum on these observations. Instead, they gave Jonah Eyal's cell phone number and offered to give the Americans a ride at the end of the day when they would inevitably meet up again at the end of the trails (after all, Saul pointed out, the trails were circular so they would surely cross paths gain) to Sde Boker, the kibbutz Ari, Jonah, and Chachi had planned on staying for the night. The boys were none too pleased to have secured this ride, as they were indeed exhausted. As they parted ways for their second half of the hike, Jonah remarked to his fellow hikers that the Israelis had the look of modern day prophets, if one could believe that such people still existed.

As the afternoon hours rolled on, the day became more cloudy. At first the Americans were happy, as it made for cooler hiking, but soon enough the clouds became darker and ominous. There was a unanimous decision to pick up the pace and make it out as soon as possible. They were descending the the mountain ridges out of the crater through a river bed on the trail when the first rain drops fell. Jonah froze in his tracks. Seeing that they were in a wadi, and it was still winter so there was still water in some places, he nearly flipped. Rain drops and water beds in the desert do not mix well together. If the rain quickened, there would most likely be a flash flood and any human caught in the middle would face a serious risk of drowning. Knowing from reading the news every day that Israeli hikers die from exactly this sort of thing a couple times a year, the three hikers tried to get to higher ground. Jonah promptly slipped on the smooth, wet stone. Ari, Chachi, and Jonah decided to just keep going, as there was no "high ground," anyway.

This move proved to be important. As the panicked trio warily continued their descent out of the crater (death clouds still looming large), they realized a new, equally huge problem. They were quickly running out of daylight. At this point, it was sometime past 4 in the afternoon. The crew had been hiking since 8am. Again, this was the third day of their hike. And although for Saul and Eyal it was a casual, day stroll, for the Americans it had been an extremely long day of hellish, intense, steep, up and down, hiking. They had survived but not quite escaped a rain scare. They had roughly and hour and a half more of daylight. They were unsure of how much more they had to hike, because hiking through the wadi proved slow as they had to avoid pools of winter water. And they were simply exhausted. The thought of being stuck in the wadi over night was enough, however, to push them onward. Indeed, they remembered the words of Saul and Eyal, and they wanted now desperately to get that ride to Sde Boker.

Jonah and Eyal had previously agreed on the zenith to meet up at 4pm and hitch the ride then. It was now 4:30pm, and the end was still not in sight. Jonah was checking his phone every other minute, waiting and waiting and waiting for service, so that he could call Saul and Eyal and make sure they did not leave without them. The Americans' water was low. They needed that ride. Meanwhile, Chachi had taken a different route, straying off the path for several meters, and found himself facing a pool who-knew-how-deep. He had gone down a steep decline to get there so retracing his steps was impossible. Ari and Jonah were waiting for him on the other side of the pool. Time was running out. Ari and Jonah had a quick conference and decided a new plan of action. Knowing that Ari was the biggest, strongest, and fasted hiker of the three, Jonah gave Ari his cell phone and told him to go on ahead--to finish the trail and find a place with service so they could ensure a ride would still be there. Ari agreed and was off. Chachi, hiking with a backpack with broken straps, brand new boots and the conjoining blisters, and a body that quite cigarettes two days earlier, was near a breaking point. But he did not break. Calmly, he took off his boots and socks, rolled up his inappropriate-for-hiking dungarees, and began wading through the water, with Jonah watching with impatience and nervousness. It went as high as his waist, but for the most part his pack was spared. Quickly, Chach put his gear back on, and the two continued, every so often seeing Ari's small figure making headway in the distance.

How they did it, none of the hikers are quite sure. But they were out of the mountain wadi by dusk and back on low ground by the time the last remaining glimpses of light were extinguished by the starry Negev desert night. They found Ari once more and waited for no more than 2 minutes when they saw distant headlights getting closer and closer to their resting spot. It was Saul and Eyal in their jeep. Smiling, they got out of their car and said, "Hey boys, sorry we're late, the hike took us longer than we thought! No matter, though. Who wants a ride to Sde Boker? Also, we have lot's of water in the back of the truck, you look real thirsty!" The three hikers were so tired they could barely speak. So they smiled and drank the water. The ride passed mostly in silence, each one deep in his own thoughts of the day's events and occurrences.

Saul and Eyal dropped the trio at Sde Boker, smiled, and with a wave and a "Shabbat Shalom," were off on their way. Later that night, Ari, Jonah, and Chachi were talking about their day: how many hours they actually spent hiking, how challenging and rewarding it was, how they had experienced what they felt as a legitimate near death experience with the rain in the river bed, and how grateful they were that they just happened to meet Saul and Eyal on the mountain that day. Jonah couldn't help but think about his comment earlier in the afternoon, that he thought the two men were surely modern day prophets. Well, now he wanted to make a slight adjustment. These men, according to Jonah, were surely not prophets. Rather, they were guardian angels, sent down to protect the hikers that day. That is if of course, if one could believe such beings still existed. That night, the hikers most definitely believed.

Saul and Eyal--best friends from birth, Kibbutzniks, prophets, and angels, were never seen by the American hikers ever again.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Last Thursday's Ridiculous Hypothetical

Last Thursday, after my last class of the week, I met up with Josh, Rebecca, and our two Palestinian friends, Ramzy and Assad. Ramzy and Assad are Bethlehem, West Bank residents, meaning they also have no citizenship or entry rights in Israel. However, as West Bankers, they are able to request from the Israeli government short term papers/visas to come into Israel to visit family and friends within Israel. Probably because they are both Christians, Israel granted the two young men entry. Ramzy and Assad were both ready to peace out of Be'er Sheva by Thursday afternoon (they had arrived on Wednesday evening), and really wanted to see the beach. They asked for Tel Aviv, but as it was already nearing 4pm, we knew we wouldn't get to TA for minimum another hour and a half. We decided on Ashkelon, instead, figuring it was still a nice beach and it cut out half the travel time. The four of us walked out of campus, and boom, what d'you know, I immediately spotted a ten person group taxi (called a שרות, or Sherut) with a sign on the front saying "Ashkelon," and I hailed that baby down. It was almost too easy.

Anyways, with our motley crew of taxi sharing riders (including an enormous, religious woman who knew the driver a little too intimately for my comfort), we set off out of Be'er Sheva to the sandy beaches of Ashkelon. Now, some of you might have heard of Ashkelon for its large Russian community. Others know it because of its dingy yet quaint mini-amusement park "Ashkeluna," a place I know Daniel holds dear in his heart. Finally, still another group might have heard of Ashkelon for its proximity to Gaza, and its subsequent site of Qassam rocket terror attacks over the past few years. The route our driver chose to take was the most direct path--passing north east on a parallel line with Gaza through the Jewish towns of Ofakim, Sderot and Netivot, i.e. Qassamvilles. Normally, I wouldn't even think twice about it, but I couldn't help but think how ironic it would be if Qassams actually did start falling while we were in the cab and if they did hit the car and killed most of the passengers with foreigners and West Bank Arabs alike included on the list of the deceased. How would the world's media react? Israel's media? The Arab world's? The Palestinian's? What were Ramzy and Assad thinking as we drove through these towns? As Christians in the West Bank, they were surely anti-Hamas...right? The whole situation kind of just tickled and intrigued and scared me all in one.

Well, I know it was a horrible way to think, but I thought it, and as I pointed out the signs to Sderot to Assad and Ramzy, hinting that we were in Gaza Qassam range, they laughed nervously and said they had just been discussing the same thing. I made sort of a nervous, half joking out-loud prayer in English, "In'sha'allah [God willing], they won't attack us while we are on our way to or hanging out at the beach, or for that matter, ever" to which they nervously laughed again and said, "Amen."

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Weird

לפני כמה ימים, התעוררתי קצת בשוק.
לא קשור לכלום, אני קמתי והבנתי מיד שויויאן היתה בחלום שלי. היא לא היתה דמות מינית בחלום--היא רק ניסתה להביא לי עוגה או מתנות בשביל
Cinco de Mayo,
אלה זה עדייו היה סוף מוזר לחלום. באוטובוס בקשתי מנתן לבחור מוסיקה באיי-פוד שלי בשבילי, והוא בחר
Buena Vista Social Club,
החלטה דווקה טובה ומתאימה לאוטובוס בבוקר לדעתי, אבל המוסיקה הלטינית היזכירה לי שוב לויוי אז ישר החלפתי. שאלה: האם אנחנו תמיד נחשוב על הנשים האבודים שלנו? או האם חלומות גם עוברות עם זמן

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

My Debut

Without further ado, I present to you my debut on Israeli national television.
Enjoy!

Jonah on TV!

ohhhh Iran

The Wall Street Journal never ceases to scare the crap out of me when it comes to Iran, and Amir Taheri's Opinion piece is no different:
As the U.S. Retreats, Iran Fills the Void

Friday, April 24, 2009

Long time no Talksies

Hey
So it's been awhile since I've made my voice heard, what better time than now, right? A lot has happened in the past few weeks, and I will try to give you some highlights/relevant updates. And I'll deliver em in numbered outline form. Cause that's how I'm feeling right now.

1. One night a couple of months ago I was drinking tea and playing shesh besh (backgammon) late night at my friend's Noa and Monique in the Be'er Sheva dorms. Noa was dj'ing with her i-pod and put on the one and only album by a band called HaKeves HaShisha Asar (the 16th Sheep--alluding to the 16th sheep you count when going to sleep at night). It is a children's album written by the famous Israeli poet, Yonatan Geffen, and the singers who sing his words are all famous Israeli musicians (David Broza, Yehudit Ravitz, Gidi Gov, and Yoni Rechter). Let me tell you now, when I heard these songs for the first time, התלהבתי, I immediately fell in love. Like, this album is amazing. I begged Noa for the album and when she came through with it a few weeks later, I was a very happy man. And a happy man I remain. Now, every morning I hop on my bus from home in Yerucham to class in Be'er Sheva and pop on some Keves, and my morning is brightened. I can't think of a better way to start my day. Yes, this album is for kids. And no, I do not care.
Here's a link, a sampler of one of my favorite songs:
The Prettiest Girl in the Pre-School

2. I am currently (finallllly) reading Everything is Illuminated by Jonathan Safran Foer, and it is excellent. Parts of it remind me of what Daniel's facebook profile looks like (filled with 'facts' about himself that are simply false but still hilarious), while others remind me a little of the movie, Borat. I'm not done with it yet, but it's prettttty good so far.

3. I took part in a really great hike over Passover break in the North. We did the first four days of the national Israel Trail from the starting point in Tel Dan to the Miron Mountains (all in the Upper Galilee). Some of you may recall that a couple of years ago Chachi, Ari, and I did the lower 40ish percent of the Shvil (trail) in 11 days. I would say that was my formative, most intense, amazing experience of my gap year. This hike was much different. It was much easier, for one thing, on reason being my absolutely excellent backpack (my 21st birthday present from the rental units) that without a doubt made hiking much better on my back and body in general. Also, the hiking we did was less intensely mountainous (though there obviously were some ridiculous inclines), and more beautiful and scenic. I hiked with Adam, Bo, and Natan, all on my BGU program, and two days in we decided to continue with another group of Israelis who were doing the same plan we were and at more or less the same pace. Basically, the hiking was incredible, and I didn't totally destroy my body like last time. Pictures from this hike (as well as a couple shots from Seder at the Shilors) can be viewed here: Passover Israel Hike 2009

4. At the culmination of the hike, we all parted ways, with the Israelis and BGU boys heading to their respective homes, and me going to the historically mystical city of Tzfat. We finished hiking only 20-25 kilometers outside of Tzfat, so I knew it would be easy to get to. Plus, my camper, Palmer Basketball Captain '08 and good friend, Nadav Teplitz, and his family live right outside of Tzfat in a tiny village of 50 families. The village/settlement/tiny town is called Amooka, and is simply gorgeous. The Hebrew word for what kind of area they live in is not actually a village or town, but a מצפה (Mitzpeh), which means Lookout. Again, I cannot stress how gorgeous this Mitzpeh is. Each family gets twoish dunams of land, on which they can build a sweet house of any size, as well as a Bed and Breakfast. בקיצור, in short, I spent the night with Teplo's family, showered, did laundry, ate a heck of a good BBQ dinner, and slept like a baby. Not only was it amazing to see Teplo and finally visit him at his house, but it should also be noted here that I beat him in a free throw shooting contest, something that should never have happened (as he is in top bball form, and I most certainly am not), but did. And I'm very happy with that. Finally, this sort of home setup is exactly the sort of place I want to raise a family. In the Galil, everything scenic and green; a small, tight knit community; and just truly beautiful. So, after I spend my years working in the realm of Negev development, I will move to a Mitzpeh in the North, and it shall be glorious.

Ok. I think that should do it for now. Tomorrow my student village is throwing a street fair literally at our doorsteps, and I need to get some shluffy time so I can get up early and help set up.
Much love,
Jonah

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Josh Guitelman

I would like to take a minute to step back from my normal topics and tell you about the passing of a dear friend:

Last night I slept in Be'er Sheva in Adam's room in the dorms, and as he had an early class this morning, he woke up before I did. As he was moving around in the room getting ready for school etc., he noticed my phone ringing and tossed it to me. Gadi was calling (for what I later saw was the 8th time in a very short span of minutes). His blurred words went something like this: "Jonah bro, sorry for waking you up, but this is really serious. Josh Guitelman passed away last night..." and the rest was just in one ear out the other. I asked him to repeat everything a couple of times just to make sure I understood correctly.

I have known Guitel since I was his age. My last summer as a camper at Camp Ramah in New England, summer 2004, my whole age group also did CIT work, and I CIT'ed for Guitel's bunk of crazy, lovable 12 year-olds. I knew I loved those kids then, and two summers later, as a junior counselor on staff in 2006, I was his counselor in bunk 57/58, the bunk of the "Bat Killers." That summer he was without a doubt one of my best and favorite campers. This past summer, in 2008, I was once again a counselor for his age group, with them now as the oldest campers in camp. Once again he proved to be an amazing camper. Easy going, a little attitude (but always listened when things got serious), the ladies loved him, an excellent Ultimate player, and most importantly, loved by all.

Guitel's Frisbee prowess had been growing over the years, and he had high hopes for excelling at the next level. Last night, life took a nasty turn. Josh was playing in a high school Frisbee match and mid game he apparently dropped to the ground, and just never got up.

When Gadi relayed this story to me this morning, I basically was in shock. I was hurt and frustrated, because I felt very aloof from my campers, my boys, whom I could not be near to console and be consoled. It has just been overall a pretty weird (in a bad sense) sort of day.

That Josh's body collapsed at such an early age is simply put, shitty.
There is no explanation. He was 16 years and 360 days old. I love Josh very much and find it hard and even partly inconceivable to think about my campers without him playing a dominant part in the picture.
We will all miss you, and already do.
Love, Jonah